In early June, bourbon enthusiast Fred Minnick shared an intriguing tribute on Instagram: He was blown away by Smokeye Hill Barrel Proof, an exciting whiskey from a new distillery. My wife and I met Minnick on a recent trip to Kentucky and were impressed by his expertise. But as someone with a collection that exceeds 150 bottles and includes nearly impossible finds, I was surprised I had never heard of it before. When Minnick later told me that the brand was as good as, or even better than, bourbons like Booker’s and George T. Stagg, I knew I had to give it a try.
After a quick Google search, I realized that bottles weren’t available in my home state of Michigan. But I did learn a little more about the brand. Smokeye Hill is located in Colorado Springs, CO, and sits at 6,000 feet above sea level. The mash, made from blue corn, is not produced in Colorado, but in the southern Indiana town of Lawrenceburg, where it is fermented and distilled. From Lawrenceburg, it is shipped to Colorado Springs, where it is aged in new charred white oak barrels for over five years.
Then I came across a link to an online retailer called Titan Beverage, which was selling Smokeye Hill Barrel Proof Bourbon for $64. I quickly added two bottles to my cart and eagerly awaited my reward.
Five days later, the package arrived. The classic-looking bottles were slapped with blue and silver labels highlighting the handwritten name and the whiskey’s cask strength, which varied by batch. Both were 131.2 proof—or nearly 66 percent alcohol by volume. In other words, they were far from shy.
After removing the top cap—a heavy metal cap that could anchor a ship at sea—my nose caught a whiff of high-octane racing fuel. It was a Thursday afternoon during the workweek, but I had to get a taste. I poured some into a glass and sniffed it: hints of caramel, oak, and leather, and a slight burn from the barrel. The first sip was sweet, with hints of ripe red fruit like cherries.
Then a second sip. It opened up even more with hints of caramel and vanilla, slowly working its way across my palate. By the third sip, the bourbon really took a breath as the barrel burn faded. I wanted to pour myself a real glass to savor it—but I still had a half-day job, so I held back.
Ryan Linden
I prefer my bourbon on the rocks. I find ice cubes enhance the flavor notes. So when I was done, I ran to the freezer for a bourbon wedge ice cube, threw it in a glass, and poured Smokeye Hill on top. After a few minutes, the ice melted, revealing hints of caramel, leather, and oak.
I savored the glass for over 20 minutes and it continued to surprise me. Hints of ripe plum and vanilla came to mind. The bourbon became smoother and sweeter, and the vanilla and caramel notes were enlivened by hints of sweet fruit. It was so good I wanted another drink, but I reminded myself that this was barrel-aged, 131 proof, and I hadn't eaten dinner yet.
It was better than any George T. Stagg I've ever had. Considering the price difference, it's worth it. If you're lucky enough to find Stagg in the store, be prepared to spend $1,500 or more. For a fraction of that price, the Smokeye Hill Barrel Proof bourbon is a winner and easily one of the best bourbons I've ever had the privilege of tasting. With its sweet flavors and richness, and its ease of drinking on the rocks, even at 131 proof, it's hard to go wrong.
Unfortunately, the secondary market caught on, and the price has skyrocketed to over $80—if you can find it. But luckily, Smokeye Hill has a second product, Straight Bourbon Whiskey, which (full disclosure) I haven’t tried yet. It’s still $65, and if it’s anything like the Barrel Proof, it’ll be a permanent addition to my collection.
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