You're Probably Using Acne Patches Wrong. Here's How They Work

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Acne patches are a lifesaver. Not only do they hide big, growing blemishes, acne patches can also help acne heal and disappear faster. The thing is, the science isn’t what most people think. Do you know how acne patches work? You may think you do, but we’re here to help you balance your expectations the next time you get a pimple.

How Do Acne Patches Work?

First things first: Acne patches are basically tiny bandages. A special type of wound dressing, the hydrocolloid material is what hospitals and clinics use to quarantine a wound on the body. It traps moisture and promotes faster healing by both creating a moist environment inside the enclosed area and protecting it from environmental threats outside (think dry air, pollution, dirty fingers). It’s basically an impenetrable barrier, and like these sticky little acne patches, they’re tiny.

With this in mind, you can better understand how to use acne patches. One thing you’ll notice with most hydrocolloid patches is that they tend to bulge over time. A common misconception is that this is due to all the gunk they’re pulling out of your pores. Not true. Instead, it’s more likely to be the continued buildup of oils from your skin, and the bulge is a good sign that the patch is working; however, some can bulge noticeably thanks to their translucent material. When this happens, it’s also a good time to change the patch or let the area breathe.

But there are also some cases where a patch can soak up said gunk. Let's say you've put it over a freshly popped pimple; it's not recommended to cover the spot while it's actively bleeding or gushing pus, but when you do eventually freshen up the spot, a pimple patch can help quarantine that micro-wound and soak up any remaining gunk while it scabs over.

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Are Acne Patches Good for Clearing Pimples?

There’s another (mis)conception that acne patches can actively quell your pimples. On the one hand, it may be true that by protecting and covering them, you can prevent things from getting too bad. But in reality, these moisture-inducing bandages probably don’t do much to actively reduce clogged pores; that’s what you need the active ingredients for (and that’s where dermatologists come in with their emergency steroid injections).

However, to target budding and/or deep cystic acne, many brands inject active ingredients (specifically salicylic acid) into patches via tiny microneedles (which don’t hurt the skin in the slightest). These tiny needles infuse the area with the active ingredient to clear trapped oil and dead skin cells from the pores and hopefully prevent the pimple from surfacing or needing to be popped. In my experience, these work to varying degrees. If I’m just hanging around the house, I opt for a more aggressive topical active ingredient, then I might apply the active-containing pimple patch before bed or if I’m going out in public.

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Acne patches come on a sliding scale of size, color, shape, translucency, and more. Some, like Starface Acne Patches and Hello Kitty Acne Patches , come in bold shapes and colors to make the acne patch more of an accessory. “Yes, I have a blemish, but I’d rather have you staring at this bandage on my forehead than a giant pimple,” she says. I respect that. (As you can imagine, they’re quite popular with Gen Z.) Of course, others, like Hero Acne Patches , PanOxyl Acne Patches , and Curology Acne Patches , aim to be more discreet.

Conclusion: What are Acne Patches Used For?

Acne patches won’t actively suck up all the gunk from inside your pores. But they can do their part to protect, heal, and stabilize the area; and in some cases, they can deliver ingredients to the skin to help reduce swelling and congestion. Most will work for six to eight hours at a time when applied to clean, dry skin.

Here are the best acne patches that I've tested and stand behind.

Best Acne Patches

Peace Out Skincare Acne Patches (Total $20)

I can't pick a favorite between these two types of Peace Out's salicylic-filled acne spot removers; of course, you can buy the day and night options separately, but I like the combined offering in the Peace Out Acne Day & Night Duo. The daytime ones are a bit more subtle and less obvious when applied. Technically, they can be worn under makeup if that's your preference, and you can see the slightest hint of your blemish through the clear strip without any concealer, but I like that the strip on its own creates a neutral middle ground where the pimple is less obvious, and the strip itself is just that. The other acne spots are perfect for day or night use, but in this pairing, they're relegated to more at-home or nighttime use. Both work by pumping salicylic acid into pores to help clear up blemishes. I like the broad coverage of Peace Out's strips, the durability of the sticker, and the ease of application. Money well spent.

COSRX 3D Acne Patches (72 Total)

Korean-born COSRX is credited with popularizing acne patches in the U.S. And here they are, in three sizes. The proposition is simple: It’s pure hydrocolloid—nothing more, nothing less. The benefits are clear: easy application, great durability, great price point. If you want a stash of acne patches for most of your blemishes (but not the ones that might need active ingredients pumped into them), here’s your old reliable.

ZitSticka Killa Acne Patches (Total 8)

There's no way around it: These salicylic acid-packed ZitSticka Killa Acne Patches are an investment compared to their $3 a pop counterpart. Or rather, $3 a pop, because they're the absolute best thing for preventing angry, painful, cystic pimples from surfacing. I apply one of these at the first sign of any aggression, and I'd say I have about an 80% success rate at preventing these baddies from popping up. That gives my skin about four months of healing time, because I'm prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation when my acne surfaces. ZitKilla is worth the money, but you might want to save it for worst-case scenarios. Good on you, tapes.

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